stoked is one of the words I use most from the surfing vocabulary; an all-purpose, mainstream favorite. To me, it conveys the passion, excitement, and frothiness that makes life interesting. Stoke doesn't have to be limited to surfing, but what hasbeen called "the most funnest sport ever" is definitely a good reference point for what it means to be stoked.
In the past few weeks I have found my stoke for surfing returning in full force, conveniently as we approach the golden moon of surfing in the northeast. Just a lot of life gifts lately have put me back in the water and mindset, and I am so thankful.
First, the surf report really shaped up for the weekend. A clean 3 foot swell on a Sunday may be whatever in some parts of the world, but for myself and a lot of the people who surf rockaway as novices with longboards and jobs in manhattan, a clean little weekend swell is perfect storm.
I spent Sunday morning around Central Park trying to recommit to running far. I signed up for a marathon training run but after a few light miles something just wasn't clicking. I guess the sea was calling. I felt a bit of antsiness, anxiousness, and not- presentness all day until I finally could paddle out at 5pm. By then, the weekend crowds had died down and some of the pink sky colors from the lowering sun had spread over the water. I saw a friend I hadn't seen in a while paddling out and we hugged in the small waves before paddling the rest of the way out, it's really easy going some days!
Everything was just so beautiful and calm and flowing, it makes me smile to remember. I caught some little waves and then switched boards with a beginner surfer on an al merrick dumpster diver. I liked paddling around on it all off balance like a baby turtle, and reminded myself to keep doing things that made me feel silly or off balance.
I switched back to my catch surf and soon the light and energy changed. I felt a swarm and excitement around me, kind of like the usual crowded break, but maybe a tinge different. I paddles around to find a place in the crowd, and saw a familiar face.
From instagram? I smiled vaguely at this girl who looked back like she knew I knew her. What was her name? She looked just like this professional surfer I follow on instagram, but no way. are there really so few girls in the line up these days I'm imagining things? Did I know her from last summer and think the same thing? But actually that has to be her. Who is that? I should watch her surf, then I'll know. While I was trying to get a closer look, I realized a wave was coming and carrying a big guy on a bigger longboard. The fin caught the back of my leg and I ragdolled in the warm shallow water. Dang.
I said I was OK and moved on. But owww it was cramping. That's what happens when you stop paying attention. Carrissa Moore. The name clicked with the face in my mind but I had lost track of her in the water already. I took a wave in and limped to the fence of the beach.
Am I going crazy? I told some friends I saw on the beach how I ended up too far intrying to watch this girl surf. But why would a world champion Hawaiian be in Rockaway!? I knew it was a good day for us, but...
I almost put the episode aside, but since my bruised leg took my out of the water, I thought to check instagram for a clue that I saw what I saw. @rissmoore10 checked in on the lower east side!
I ran / limped back to the beach and started geeking out to everyone in the sand with a surfboard. Suddenly, the purpley bruise I knew was coming from that session felt like a warm autograph.
Were you surfing rockaway?? I hit the comments.
2 minutes later she posted a photo on Rockaway beach! It was the craziest intersection of digital and real real life. I had seen one of my surfing heros, who I once wrote a long fan email, surfing my home break. Totally natural. No phones, no selfies, just paddling around like everyone else on this super decent day in New York.
I only realized later this was part of a lot of special appearances, clinics and events sponsored by Nike and Hurley in the city, but in that one cool moment this world class surfer was just the other girl in the line up at rockaway, a natural friend.
I felt incredibly stoked that by accident, I had surfed with a three time women's world champion. Frothing aside, there is something very powerful about meeting someone you admire. The times I have met athletes I look up to, it has always given me a huge boost in feeling that these people with seemingly super hero abilities aren't so different from me, they really did just put in the work and time and passion. I also can sometimes lose gratitude for my home break if I compare it to the big, consistent waves that happen in other parts ofthe world. But what an amazing thing to be ablepaddle out in this huge city, make millions of friends, and never know who you'll bump into. Seeing someone who's surfed all the best waves still just going out in small surf for fun and to be in the water was a great lesson that it's always worth it to get out there ✨